Discover The Northwest
DISCOVER
THE NORTHWEST
Fall/Winter '99




Pleasures
Skiers hope for repeat of dream season
Ski the Northwest
All aboard for dinner, mystery and sightseeing

Journeys
Ups and downs are in the cards at Western Washington casinos
A catalog of essentials for frequent travelers
New trail journeys to 'the end of the Earth'
Port Gamble: Small town with big history
''; Big game, marine life find safe havens
Marine sanctuary guards coastal waters
''; Hikers tread lightly on Idaho dunes
Museums for kids plentiful in area
Glimpse inside Portland's grand hotels; Portland: Land of plenty
Don't let costs prohibit trip to Vancouver, B.C.
At Willamette Valley, view of paradise awaits
Rose Test Garden adds color to city's landscape
''; Try not to duck out of unique tour of Seattle

Dreams
Festivals abound around the Northwest
Possible first steps on your next getaway

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Melissa Hung/For The Olympian
Melissa Hung/For The Olympian
Vancouver's Gastown district boasts cobblestone streets and an array of shops and clubs. Melissa Hung/For The Olympian
Melissa Hung/For The Olympian
An architectural tour of downtown Vancouver reveals old and modern structures of impressive design.

Don't let costs prohibit trip to Vancouver, B.C.

On shoestring budget? Uncover riches galore

Melissa Hung, For The Olympian

VANCOUVER, British Columbia -- Approaching downtown Vancouver is like being Dorothy and seeing the rising expanse of the Emerald City in the distance. It's new and shiny, the skyline an aesthetically pleasing ensemble of buildings tinted with greens and sea blues. Once you get your head out of the skyscrapers and start looking around, you might notice that everyone is height-weight proportionate, clean, well-dressed in trendy threads and driving BMWs or other vehicles of like caliber.

But don't be deterred if you drove to town in your '89 Volkswagen Jetta. Vancouver may be the most expensive city in Canada, but that doesn't mean you can't get away with a low-cost weekend visit. After all, you already have the exchange rate going for you. Here's a guide to what to do and what to see in Vancouver, for relatively cheap.

Wandering about downtown

Go on an architectural tour of downtown. Yes, this sounds nerdy, but once you lay eyes on the new Vancouver Public Library, you will understand. A stunning structure consisting of a rectangular building with an ellipse, the library invokes the look of a modern-day, glass and granite version of the Roman Coliseum. With nine levels and 24 kilometers of shelves, the library alone will tempt book-lovers to move to Vancouver. Lower levels house coffee, snack and gift shops. The library also is a great spot to people-watch; the diversity of city residents is striking. The library is at 350 W. Georgia St. Call (604) 331-3600.

Then there's the venerable Hotel Vancouver, 900 West Georgia St., with its famous gargoyles and griffins and green copper roof, outlined by a string of lights at night. Call (800) 441-1414. Across from the Hotel Vancouver is the Christ Church Cathedral, an old stone structure that strikes a lovely contrast to the glass and steel monoliths surrounding it.

Museums

And that round silver ball of a building, a giant golf ball by day and all lit up like a Christmas ornament by night? That's just Science World. A sure-fire hit with the kids, you can watch the 3D Laser Theater show or a movie at the Omnimax Theater, see your shadow disappear and blow square bubbles. Science World is at 455 Quebec St. Call (604) 253-6363.

Other museums worth noting are the Vancouver Art Gallery, which houses a permanent exhibit of work by British Columbia's renowned contemporary artist Emily Carr, 750 Hornby St., (604) 682-5621, and the Canadian Craft Museum, which is free and offers changing exhibits. The Craft Museum is at 639 Hornby St., (604) 687-8266.

Parks

One thing Vancouver isn't lacking is parks, and many of them are free. Start at Stanley Park, 1,000 acres of natural woodland, well-kept gardens and beaches. Situated at the edge of downtown Vancouver, the park itself is filled with a half-day's worth of attractions: the Vancouver Aquarium, horse-drawn carriages, the Children's Farmyard, the Miniature Railway and the Pitch 'n' Putt Golf Course.

The best way to get acquainted with the park is to walk or bike along the seawall, a favorite spot for joggers. Bike rentals are available. Along the way, you'll come across several totem poles and a lighthouse.

For something a bit more manicured, head to the Queen Elizabeth Park, a beautifully landscaped combination of park and botanical gardens. Set in the highest point of the city, the park also is the site of the Bloedel Conservatory and gives a terrific panoramic view of the city.

For a small admission charge, you can enjoy a cup of tea at Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden in Chinatown. A tranquil garden of rocks, plants, wood and man-made structures, it is the first of its kind to be built outside of China. The garden is at 578 Carrall St., (604) 662-3207.

Then head over the Lions Gate Bridge into North Vancouver to the Capilano River Park, which contains the Cleveland Dam that harnesses the Capilano River and supplies Vancouver's water. Hike over to the Capilano Salmon Hatchery along Capilano Road, which has observation tanks and free admission. Call (604) 987-1411.

If you're feeling touristy, see the Capilano Bridge, quite possibly the oldest tourist attraction in the city. Stretched above the Capilano River at 3735 Capilano Road, the 450-foot bridge is not meant for swaying, but you should try it anyway.

This should scare away a few people and give you more room to take in the view of the canyon below. The bridge is open year-round, and only closes for Christmas and in the event of lightning. Call (604) 985-7474.

Window shopping

Underneath the south end of Granville Street Bridge is Granville Island, a marketplace that's free, open to the public and better than Seattle's Pike Place anytime, except of course, when it is closed, as it is on certain days in the winter. Allow yourself time to stroll leisurely around the endless shops.

Vancouver boasts the second-largest Chinatown in North America. Though it pales in comparison with San Francisco's, it is worth seeing, especially since the world's narrowest office building is at the corner of Pender and Carrall streets. The Sam Kee Building, built in 1914, is only 6 feet wide and two stories tall.

Robson Street is the city's fashionable shopping street downtown with an array of boutiques, cafés and the occasional fascinating shop. The sidewalk is filled with people well into the late evening. If you are a fan of Pocky, the Japanese biscuit snack, then you will want to stop by Mina No Konbiniya, 1238 Robson St. (604) 682-3634. In addition to renting and selling Japanese movies and anime, the shop also sells a giant version of Pocky.

The streets are paved with cobblestone and lined with decorative streetlamps in Gastown. Consisting of just a few streets, Gastown offers shops, cafes, nightclubs and a steam clock that whistles every 15 minutes. One shop worthy of attention is Inform Interiors Inc., 97 Water St., (604) 682-3868. If you were a rock star, or perhaps just wealthy and hip, this would be the place to buy furniture.

Much of the furniture was designed in the '20s and '50s in the modern minimalist classic vein. Even if you can't afford the furniture, the pieces are works of art in themselves and you should definitely browse. The store also has a healthy selection of architecture books.

Night Life

You can get by during the day without spending much, so save your loonies for the night. Vancouver is lacking in theater for a city its size, but that's not to say that you shouldn't scope out listings for a play or a concert.

After your dose of culture, go out for a drink. Vancouver is rich in bars and clubs, and there's no problem finding a packed place, unless it's a Sunday or Monday night.

If you have a wild side, then let it out at Celebrities, 1022 Davie St., (604) 689-3180. Celebrities calls itself the biggest gay club in western Canada. Drag shows are every Wednesday night. There are cages. What else needs to be said?

MaRS Nightclub, with its fiber optics technology that recreates the Milky Way on the ceiling three stories above and a powerful 22-foot screen, attracts a late night crowd of dancing fools. The club is at 1320 Richards Street, (604) 230-6277.

Unlike other night-life spots, Bar-None at 1222 Hamilton St. is hip and happening all week long, even when others are closed. With live blues, jazz and funk bands, Bar-None attracts a well-dressed, well-heeled, trendy, Cuban-cigar-puffing clientele. A good place to chat, chill out with a drink and listen to the band, there's also a little room for dancing. Call (604) 689-7000.

And if all else fails, go see a movie, but a Canadian one. Yes, there are Canadian films among the usual Hollywood imports.

Melissa Hung is a journalism student at Northwestern University in Evanston, Ill.

AT A GLANCE

There's no shortage of lodging in Vancouver. With a little advance planning, you can pick your price. Here's an overview of accommodations in different price ranges. All prices are in American dollars:

If you're on a tight budget, Vancouver has a good selection of hostels that are conveniently located. Try the Hostelling International in downtown Vancouver, 1114 Burnaby St. Lodging starts at $19 a night. There's also the Backpacker's Hostel, 347 W. Pender. With room for 60 guests, there's likely to be lodging available.

Moderately priced options include The Westin Grand, 433 Robson St., (604) 684-9393; or The Ramada Limited, 435 W. Pender St., (604) 488-1088. Both hotels are centrally located and have rooms starting at $75. For the same price, try the Windsor House Bed and Breakfast, 325 11th Ave. W., (888) 872-3060.

If money is no object, book a room at the magnificent Hotel Vancouver, 900 W. Georgia St. Rooms start at $140 a night, with many special weekend packages available. Call (800) 441-1414.

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